Induction cooking is faster, easier to control, and safer than cooking with gas or propane. In addition, because the surface does not heat up (only the pans and food do), it is very easy and safe to clean up any spills. 

Induction cooking works by creating a magnetic field between the cooking pan/pot and the magnetic coils beneath the cooking surface. The magnetic field then heats the content of the cooking pot. 

In order for cookware to perform on induction cooktops, it must contain iron (cast iron or some types of stainless steel) or have a layer of material with magnetic properties. Some stainless steel cookware does not work with induction – for example, if it is a blend of aluminum and stainless steel, or if the nickel content of the stainless steel is too high. However, some manufacturers of cookware are now putting a layer of magnetic material on the bottom of the pan/pot.

To tell if a pot or pan is compatible with your induction stove, hold a magnet to the bottom. If the magnet clings to the underside, the cookware will work on an induction cooktop. If the magnet grabs the pan softly, you may not have good success with it. If there is no pull on the magnet, it will not work. Also, many manufacturers have started putting an “induction compatible” symbol on the bottom of their cookware or note compatibility on the packaging. The symbol often looks like a horizontal zig-zag or a coil. 

Induction cooktops range in price from $800 to $2,000 for a standard 30-inch cooktop. These can be installed in place of your current gas, propane, or electric cooktop. 

If you are looking to replace your current cooktop/range combination, you can purchase a new induction cooktop/electric range for about $3,000. The induction/electric range costs somewhat more than a similar gas or propane range, but the improved performance and health and safety benefits may outweigh the costs.

You can find induction cooktops, and induction cooktop/electric ranges, at many large appliance retailers.

Air-source heat pumps are reversible air conditioners.  Just like an air conditioner, in the summer they transfer heat from inside your home to the outside. In the winter they “concentrate” and transfer heat from the outside to inside your home. In 2022, the Washington State Building Code Council voted to require electric heat pumps for heating and cooling in new commercial, residential, and multi-family buildings.

Heat pumps run on electricity but are 2-3 times more efficient than electric resistance heating.  Heat pumps provide both heating and cooling for your home, all in one unit. Heat pumps consist of an outdoor unit connected to one or more indoor units by refrigerant lines.

Air-Source Heat Pumps can use ducts to transport the warm or cool air throughout your home, like most home heating and central air conditioning systems. Air-Source heat pumps can also be used to supply heat to in-floor radiant heating systems. These systems are called air-to-water heat pumps.

Ductless heat pumps, also known as “mini-splits,” move refrigerant, rather than heated or cooled air, from the outdoor unit to one or more indoor units. The indoor units are typically wall-mounted and include a small fan. Ductless mini-split heat pumps tend to be more energy-efficient than ducted systems, in part due to eliminating ducts and requiring smaller fans.

For new and existing homes, heat pumps can provide several important benefits, including:

• Reduced annual heating costs
• Reduced air pollutant emissions
• Improved comfort
• Improved safety and reduced risks

Heat pumps work very well and tend to be more cost-effective in new homes than in retrofits of existing homes. There are also many benefits of designing new homes to be all-electric.

For retrofits of existing homes, air emissions, comfort, and safety will be improved in nearly every case, but the costs only pencil out today in some applications.

Once you find an installer, ask if they’ll do a free evaluation and quote. If you can, avoid shopping only on price; the quality of the design and installation matters just as much. Think through the "Important Questions to Ask a Contractor" section, and talk over the options with your potential contractor(s). Make sure they have a reputable track record, and can service equipment when needed. If your contractor says “heat pumps don’t really work in our climate” or “every heat pump needs a backup system”, find someone else. Remember, the lowest bid isn’t always the best value, and a high price doesn’t guarantee competence or quality.

Puget Sound Energy has a helpful Find a Contractor feature you can use to help you locate multiple installers to reach out to for your electric heat pump.

Keep the following checklist of questions on hand to help ensure your contractor is prepared to correctly design and install your system. Of course, ask questions you come up with as well. 

• Can you provide references from previous customers with similar systems? 
• Have you participated in manufacturer training for the systems you would install? 
• Do you know about available incentives or rebates, and will you provide assistance in applying for them? 
• Where will you mount the outdoor unit(s), and how? Brackets bolted to an exterior wall may create unwanted noise in a sensitive area like a bedroom. Units should also be shielded from rain and snowmelt dripping off the roof.
• If exterior “line sets” (piping) will be visible, where will they be placed? 
• What type of indoor units are you recommending, where will they be located, and why? 
• Do you recommend a wall-mounted thermostat or control? (This is needed for ducted systems. For ductless units serving larger spaces, it can enhance comfort by sensing the temperature in a central location.) 
• Do you always perform a triple evacuation before charging the refrigerant lines? 
• Will I need to hire my own electrician to provide the electrical work? Will I need any electrical service upgrade to accommodate the heat pumps? (This is not unusual in older houses.) 
• Will you use any subcontractors in the process? If so, who are they and what jobs will they do? 
• Will you provide training for me on how to properly operate and maintain the system? 
• Do you provide a warranty for the systems you install, and how long is it? 

Heat pump water heaters (HPWH) cost a bit more than standard electric or propane water heaters, but they easily pay for themselves in annual energy cost savings. In addition, compared to standard electric and propane water heaters, electric HPWH emissions will fall steadily downward as Washington State’s electricity moves towards carbon-free. Compared to Energy Star natural gas water heaters, HPWHs are much more efficient and reduce the annual water heating costs by about 50 percent. 

• Compared to electric resistance water heaters, Energy Star heat pump water heaters (HPWHs) consume about 1/3 as much energy, reducing your annual energy costs for hot water by 67 percent.
• Compared to Energy Star propane water heaters, HPWHs are about five times as efficient, reduce annual energy costs by 75 percent. 
• Compared to Energy Star gas water heaters, heat pump water heaters are about five times as efficient, with 50 percent less annual energy costs.
• The installed cost for a HPWH is about $800 more than the installed cost of an efficient gas water heater or standard electric water heater, or ~$700 more than an efficient propane water heater. The HPWH will pay for itself in about 2 years vs. a propane water heater, or 2.1 years vs. an electric resistance water heater. 

There are a few potential challenges in installing a HPWH, and you need to consider the following four issues before making a decision to buy one for your home.

• Temperature. The HPWH must be installed in a location that will be above 40 degrees F year-round. 
• Drain. You need access to a drain (for condensate) which will not freeze. This could be any of the following:
  • Floor Drain
  • Utility Sink
  • Sump pump
  • Existing drain pipe
• Enough space. You need a space that is about 750 cubic feet (about 8.5’ x 9’ x 10’), or a smaller space that can be fitted with louvered doors or ducted. And the space needs a ceiling at least 6 feet in height for a household of five or less (7 feet high for more than 5 people). 
• Electrical panel. If you are replacing an electric water heater, there is no problem. If replacing a propane or gas water heater, you need to ask your plumber or electrician if your electrical panel has enough capacity to handle the HPWH. If the panel requires an upgrade to handle the 240 V and power needs of the HPWH, this could significantly increase the installation costs.